Wood frame anyone?

We understand that current building codes allow you to build wood frames homes in the USA and Canada and a few other countries. On top of that the codes are inadequate and irresponsible — bordering the criminal in All countries. And most builders and architects don’t really care if they are giving you a unsafe and irresponsible home. The EASY MONEY CROWD is all too happy to take your money as easy as they can — a sucker is born everyday, is how this people chose to do business, so it’s up to you to demand the best possible house for the money — ITS YOUR MONEY, YOUR LIFE, YOUR FAMILY, act accordingly.

DONT SETTLE FOR LESS, DONT SETTLE FOR JUNK — minimum codes are junk.

The latest series of fires, hurricanes and tornadoes, clearly showed such buildings to be inadequate and iresponsible. If you are going to build a wood frame house please do your homework and build the safest possible.

Forget what the codes say, those responsible for them have no clue about anything, expecting them to require good building codes is wishfull thinking. Most of them live in unsafe homes and are in politics/public service for personal gains.

We can build a wood frame house that can survive a hurricane, a tornado and a wild fire. Please consider the suggestions below when building your wood frame house.

Foundation minimums:

6 inch slab, with 1/2 rebar each way @ 16 o.c.

6 ft deep– or more 2ftx2ft footings at corners, with a 4x4x1/4 steel post embedded on it.

Anchor bolts at 16 o.c.

Framing: 2×6 minimum. Preferably 2×8. If using double wall, a 2×3 or 2×4 insulated inside wall is sufficient.

3x sill, 2x studs with 4x @ plywood joints

Exterior plywood 3/4 minimum, or double layer of 1/2 structural plywood, with one layer vertical and the other horizontal. Nail with 10d minimum. Lags at bottom and top plate at 16 o.c. max. Best option is to shear both sides of exterior walls, alternating joints.

Roof designed for a floor load rating with 3/4 plywood minimum. 4ft minimum U straps at each rafter on both sides of wall.

Eave boxed and no more than 16 inches.

Exterior finishes:

No exposed combustibles.

Stucco, stone or brick on walls. Best option will be using those finishes over a corrugated metal exterior to create an air chamber.

Stucco or metal on eaves.

Double layer Metal roof, or tile over a metal roof — to create an air chamber. Double metal layer on eaves with offset vents if you chose the exterior venting system. Or you can have the ability to close them all. The other way would be our solution of double wall and double windows and air flowing in between them on a 2 inch chamber, going by the insulated top and bottom attic and going under the house to get a thermal conditioning effect and aided by a air conditioning system able to condition temperature and humidity. This is the best system for the best possible energy efficiency. It will pay for itself in extreme weather areas and is the most energy responsible system, besides going earth sheltered.

Real window shutters of 1/8 steel plate minimum over a strong all metal frame.

Interior finishes:

Non combustible has much as possible.

Use Only 5/8 fire rated drywall — 1/2 inch is junk. Or use plaster over fire rated board.

Double layer of fire rated board in hallways, garage and kitchen.

Metal insulated doors and frames at all exterior openings.

There you have it, a house that will survive most fires, tornadoes, or hurricanes.

What’s your excuse now?